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Technical "things to know" for beginners

krisp23

New member
I have posted this message on other boards, but I was so pleased with the repsonses to my first two posts on this board, that I am posting it again here. Can you guys give some good "things to know" from a technical perspective for beginners? I am not looking for any information on the business part of the job, but purely the technical aspect. I plan on doing mostly flatwork, so I am looking for any information pertaining to flatwork and 12v hot water equipment in general. Thanks again for all your time and help. It really does make a difference to those of us just getting started!
 
My first advice would be to use a first name in your signature area. go to user cp and put your first name there so whne you post it comes up automatically.


I believe we talked on the phone a few nights ago? I will follow up your answer when i have alittle time.
 
For technical information I would get to understand concrete and why some concrete does not have the strength of others.

Go check out this site and read about concrete, you may not understand why now but will tie the information at a later time.



I will have to say stay away from damaging peoples concrete. Learn how to wash awnings properly before you start.


Here are a couple of sites I would check out….


http://www.awningcleaning.com/

http://www.portcement.org/cb/concretebasics_faqs.asp


The Awning Company I don’t promote their products but they do have some useful inf. on cleaning properly.
 
Krisp,
Be more specific in your questions on what exactly do you want to know about flat work. Such as what size surface cleaner do most guys/gals use? DO you like surface cleaners with or without wheels? What gpm and psi is most recommended? What chemicals if any should be used?

I can go on and on. You get the picture. Ask specifiic questions so we can give you a better answer instead of a less generalize one.

If all else fails and you don't find the answers your looking for then use the search engine above and try to find answers to some of your questions.

One more thing: Ron's right in that you should put a name in your signature. People feel more at ease when answering someone they could put a name to.
 
I guess I am looking for technical "things to know" about how to use the equipment. Thing that you guys/girls might take for granted like, "Don't hold your trigger down for more than 2 minutes straight" or "make sure you have a filter between your washer and portable tanks if you are using water from a fire hydrant". I just made these up, but I am trying to avoid doing something ignorant right out of the shoot which might damage my equipment. I've talked to a few distributors and seen some demos, but these could not cover everything. Yes, you are right, this is a very vague question, but this is the kind of stuff that is very helpful to us newcomers. Thanks again!
 
Hello Kris,

Some of the things that you might be looking for, I and I'm sure others may not think about anymore! When you have done something for a long time it just comes naturally.

There are always lessons learned looking at others equipment as well as talking about the whys of what/how they do what they do!

Many times finding out "Boy I don't wanta do it that way!" can be just as helpful as finding out how to do something.

You are welcome to come down and see some of the things that we do and don't do!

Dave Olson
 
Ah did I see that no no word "fire hydrant" used, filter or not if you want to stay in business don't even think of using that water.

Some Cities might allow it if you buy or rent a meter from them to keep track of how much water you use so they can get paid.

Now a filter before your pump yes and a large one kept clean weekly too.

Surface cleaner, I overlap when cleaning concrete which is what I do anyway, was 50, 75 or so feet, disconnect and go back with a 15° nozzle and rinse and pop off gum. Point it away from vehicles and always keep your eyes open for people walking by.

I use a ball valve so I don't have to keep shutting down, just close valve, remove from surface cleaner and put on wand.

Some have both on the surface cleaner but won't work for me as I do to much at once time to switch every few feet.

Now it does come in handy I am told as a weapon if bothered at night.
 
ron p/jon

if you touch a fire plug without a cop standing there the whole time you use it its a $2000
fine and is a jailable 1st time offence.
Thanks to BIN LADIN.
Even the township must call for a cop to fill the street sweepers.
 
Jon,
Are you saying you make one pass of 50 - 75 feet and then go back over it with the 15 degree nozzle? If you make multiple passes, how many do you make before it is absolutely necessary to rinse? If I am doing a movie theater entrance that is 250 feet x 50 feet, stopping every one pass would take forever.

Also, if you don't use water from a fire hydrant, how the heck else do you guys fill up 500 gallon tanks? Again, I feel like this would take forever. I know in my situation, the only water at the movie theaters is in the back near the dumpster, so it will be absolutley necessary for me to transport water, at least around the building. I don't really want to deal with the whole meter thing, but I didn't know if there were any other options.
 
Not one pass of 75 feet, I do appox. 30 to 40 feet at a time, forward then move over half and walk backwards, back and forth. By half I refer the surface cleaner width.

I cover the width completly, then once I have done about 75 feet or less, all depends then I disconnect and rinse as I walk back to rig.

Then I move the rig forwards and finish the job the same way. This all depends on how many feet total, most stores can be done that way, strip malls I try to park dead center and add another 50 feet of hose so I can do the whole thing without moving.

Hope that explains it better for you.

Now most accounts have water, first thing I do when I pull up is connect water hose to spigot and start filling tanks.

Keep in mind if you do not condition yourself you will find water running over onto the street. It won't take long to keep looking back at your tank filling up. I use ball valves on tanks to be able to turn one off, both off or fill both at once so I don't have to keep turning off water.
 
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I have a bulk water account with my local water company..........they have a 2 inch hose at their facility that will fill my tank in under two minutes. Five cents per gallon.

I do not bring water to many jobs, however, this is the best option for me when I do.
 
ron p

yes JON its true you have to get the cop to go to the water CO to get the meter sign it out
document the use, and return it. This cannot be done by a off duty cop either. I have lots of cop friends that i thought i could use but no off duty cops. Here a cop costs around $65 per hour to rent them. Also JON why dont you have float switches on your tanks intakes?
Here's one more question
if you loose a bid because you put in the bid about having to run for water and your compitition
just hooks up to a fire plug illeagely would you rat them out?
Krisp i was under the impression you were from the land down under you may not have the same rules as us you prob. still need a meter and let the plug run for at least a min before you hook up
theres all kinds of crud that will come out of it for a while.
 
Squirt,
You need to remember that every place has different laws covering them. That means that just because your township requires it as a revenue producer, my city does not.

Kris,
Make sure that your machine bypasses back to your tanks. This will increase the life of everything.
Have an inline filter to filter wahtever nasties might be present.
Carry extra parts, and learn what they are used for. Learn the theory of pressure washers so that you can perform quick fixes in the field when you need to.
Get a Large water line from your tank as close as possible to your pump, and use a 3/4" line from the trailer. For instance, I run a 2" line along the floor of my trailer to just under my pump and then a 3/4" line up to my pump. It is easier to suck water from a short 3/4" line than from a long one.
Remember that it is hard work.
remember that the hardest part is the sales.
If you notice that all of the contractors in your area are charging more than you, it is not necessarily because they are cheating the people, it is probably because they realize that is what it takes to stay in business and be profitable.
There will always be someone that will charge less, but not necessarily able to do it cheaper.
The cheapest parts are not necessarily the best parts.
Not everyone that posts onthese boards is an expert. A few know a lot, and some that want to be experts were asking the same questions you were 6 months ago. Learn who you can trust.
Take a trip to Danville and see David. You will learn a lot., just do not try to get equipment like his yet, it will break you on a new startup.
Always carry extra fuel and filters for everything.
There are more, but this is a start.

Scott Stone
 
Squirt to answer you question about ratting, NO I am not into that nor following around competitors and going after their accounts.

What I do when asked to bid is check for water spigots, if I find none I mention this to the prospective customer asking where their water is and depending on how far it is I might be able to run hoses to it.

Float switchs would not be easy to install since all my inlet and outlet stuff is on the other side from the top opening of the tanks.

I would have to totally replumb everything and at this stage not worth it, might not have both tanks if I go to a closed system anyway.

I do have a fire plug adapter and use it all the time where I live legally because I live in a private community in which we own the plugs, pay for all the water too and that makes it legal. ( I called and ask if it was legal for me to draw water from the hydrant and yes they said your paying for it, you own it so as long as the board of directors allow it go for it.)


In fact the fire and police departments never come in here unless called for emergencies.
 
RON P /JON

I am still suprised they let you the concern is some terrosit back flushing killer chems into the water supply
 
To be perfectly honest here I would not even know how to back flush, nor what that really means but will guess it is somehow having more pressure to push the water coming from the hydrant back in and adding chemicals.

How things like that are done is truly beyond me, I am not a mechanical engineer nor do I care to learn stuff like that.

Call me dumb for being so honest but that is me, hard for many that have known me a few years to believe but there is more then one side to me..

Kendra found that out a few days ago, I think she is still in shock too!
 
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About the fire hydrant. IT is the only thing I use most of the time
the water is not to dirty if you flush the hydrant. and I try to use the some hydrant so they stay clean
Water cost about 1.50-2.00 per 1000 gallons and It dose about 40 gallons a min for a 1.5" conecton. 150 gpm for 3"
but to rent the meter it's $150 for 6 month
and about $800 to buy one but they are very handy

ERIC
 
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