Another..lines left by surface cleaner

mllerena

mllerena

New member
Well I'm having the dreaded lines left from the surface cleaner. Damn sidewalk looks like a highway. Don't have any pictures. But imagine black moldy sidewalks that have never been clean.:banghead:

The surface cleaner is a BE 20'. The tips are new 25deg. The equipment pushes out hot, 4psi/4gpm.

I tried to leave a small space between passes (so not to overlap) and hit it with the wand after but still left the line marks.

It also seems much easier to pull the surface cleaner rather than push. The surface cleaner doesn't hover(should it)?

Any thoughts or direction.

Thanks!:groucho:
 
Brand new tips installed today, dont think the lines clogged. what about the hovering or should i invest in some wheels?
 
I have the same setup as you and my 20 inch doesn't hover like it should because of the pressure drop from the hose 250'.Try it on a short hose 50' and see if it hovers.I usually run my 18 inch SC which is a lot faster than the 20 as we are right on the edge of what the 4gpm 4kpsi machine will turn.

There are lots of reasons the concrete could be a cheap mix,old cement ,plugged tips,new pour,and on and on which could leave the stripes.Some people spray a real strong housewash after the rinse and it kinda fades the lines a little.

You might want to remove the injector out of the line while using your SC too.
 
I have come to the conclusion that when you get vertical lines it is because the concrete is still dirty or the quality of the concrete is bad! If you spray some love on the verticle line and it disappears it is still dirty. If it is due to bad concrete it will not be there when it dries.
 
no chems used at this location. I'm using only 100ft hose...I guess I can try 50
 
I started using 2502 tips in mine awhile back and noticed a big difference. My 18 and my 20in both hover fine and I have 250ft of line on each reel.
 
After time you will realize that bowling lanes are created because you cleaned an area better than the next. So the strip your seeing is actually clean and the rest is not. A really good chemical mix will help but on accounts that have been neglected for years it takes a few cleanings to get those out of the concrete and have it back down to bare concrete
 
Chris Tharpe said:
After time you will realize that bowling lanes are created because you cleaned an area better than the next. So the strip your seeing is actually clean and the rest is not. A really good chemical mix will help but on accounts that have been neglected for years it takes a few cleanings to get those out of the concrete and have it back down to bare concrete
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I agree with Chris...
 
What orifice size are your tips? If you are running 4 GPM then the tip I would use is a 15 degree, size 2.5 for about 3000 PSI. If you are rated to 4000 PSI then you a size 2.0, 15 degree tip in each bar. ALSO, PULL the tip out you just installed, and check them again for clogs. DO NOT use teflon tape.
 
Tracy said:
What orifice size are your tips? If you are running 4 GPM then the tip I would use is a 15 degree, size 2.5 for about 3000 PSI. If you are rated to 4000 PSI then you a size 2.0, 15 degree tip in each bar. ALSO, PULL the tip out you just installed, and check them again for clogs. DO NOT use teflon tape.
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Tracy, what size for 3500 PSI/4GPM?
 
Tracy said:
What orifice size are your tips? If you are running 4 GPM then the tip I would use is a 15 degree, size 2.5 for about 3000 PSI. If you are rated to 4000 PSI then you a size 2.0, 15 degree tip in each bar. ALSO, PULL the tip out you just installed, and check them again for clogs. DO NOT use teflon tape.
Click to expand...

Curious why you are mentioning to not use teflon tape here. I have been using teflon tape for pipe fittings forever, especially in pressure washing.

The only problem I have is with pvc or poly fittings, I just use more teflon.

I have only cracked 2 Delavan pump head threads but not much else.

I don't use that pipe dope as I have never had good luck with it sealing.

If the threadlock would dry fast then I would use it on everything but it says it is cured in 24 hours so I don't use it that much.

What do you recommend Tracy?

Thanks.
 
Christopher said:
Curious why you are mentioning to not use teflon tape here. I have been using teflon tape for pipe fittings forever, especially in pressure washing.

The only problem I have is with pvc or poly fittings, I just use more teflon.

I have only cracked 2 Delavan pump head threads but not much else.

I don't use that pipe dope as I have never had good luck with it sealing.

If the threadlock would dry fast then I would use it on everything but it says it is cured in 24 hours so I don't use it that much.

What do you recommend Tracy?

Thanks.
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I agree with you, all I have ever know is to use Teflon, when we are in the field I dont have enough time to wait on stuff to dry, teflon is quick and easy and I have never had an issue with it. (yet?):to_pick_ones_nose:
 
The key to using Teflon tape is to start the tape one thread back. In fire suppression, when doing the plumbing in the hood, It is mandatory to use tape. But, you have to start 1 thread back so no tape gets loose and clogs the nozzle. Follow that rule and you will never have a problem.
 
I love tape, and I love dope. Pro-Washer - There are many nozzle size charts just do a search.
 
Tom,

You look like you spent all night long on the bong.

tomtucson said:
I love tape, and I love dope. Pro-Washer - There are many nozzle size charts just do a search.
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