what am i doing wrong???

Russ Spence

Commercial Pressure Wash Expert
I have been in the buisness for about 9 years and just recently started doing roofs. I have cleaned almost everything else and done really well but i still have not found something to spray on and wash off.I started with bleach 2:1(haha), the mildew just growled.I used a surfactant(growled louder)straight bleach(helped somewhat),this week i bought a 55 gallon drum of 12.5% sodium hypoclorite it worked much better but on the tall pitches im still having trouble.I sill find my self on the roof ,I really dont mind being up there but if i dont have to i would just as soon stay on the ground.What happened to the theory i once read that once said you could take a x-jet or m5 (which i have)use 12.5% sodium hypoclorite and shoot it at 2:1 and rinse.Mabe i still need a surfactant like a detergent or TSP. I get the roofs clean but im looking for a way to make it work better. (I guess im dreaming)
 
We use ShurFlo pumps and 10-12.5% mixed at 1:1 or stronger if it's tile. A x-jet won't dispense a strong enough chem mix without several applications, which means more time spent on the job.

Here are a couple of pics of a tile roof that we cleaned last year.
 

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The only time we'll use a surfactant is on some of the steeper roofs to give the chem some cling. Others use it in their mix all the time. It's a personal preference thing. Asphalt shingles on a low to moderate pitched roof will usually hold the chem due to pitch and the rough texture of the shingles. Gravity takes over somewhat on the steep pitches. As you probably know, chlorine will burn plants and grass very quickly. We always water before, during and after spraying the roof and will tarp plants in certain situations. If the house is guttered, an open garden hose running at the down spouts works well too.

Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions.
 
Here are some pics of the PVC wand that we use.
 

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I have been trying to clean a very dirty roof. I've tried strong alkaline mix. Worked, but needed presswure or light brushing. I've tried bleach, detergent mix (nothing). I've tried straight 5% SH (nothing) I've got 12.5% SH on the way. what ratio should I use, and should I x-jet it, or build me a shurflo setup? If so, I guess I have to walk all the roofs? I appreciate any help, as I am just learning to do roofs and trying to add that service. The roof I am working on is my Dad's.... it is REALLY black.... Thanks...
 
Sodium Hypochlorite

I'm a new guy to the roof cleaning business and will have lots of questions. For now, I think I understand the basics on how to clean the roofs, but was wondering how to keep the 12.5% sodium hypochlorite from eating up my truck and trailer? Thanks
 
Russ,

Thanks Russ.

The "basics" of roof cleaning for me is limited to what I've read from knowledgeable bbs members who so generously shared on this site and others. I’ve made lots of notes.

I've recently left a mid level corporate mgmt job and don't want to go back. I'm still in the process of setting up my own business. I've incorporated, have priced out several different rigs (but actually need help with that decision too) am looking for liability insurance quotes and made calls about worker’s comp insurance today. Everything is coming along as planned and I’d like to be doing work for hire between July 1st and the 15th.

I called Delco in Ft Worth, TX looking to enroll in their school on June 5th, but as of yesterday, they have zero students enrolled. I don’t know, but seems like I’d learn more in a schools that actually has an enrollment. I’m sure they’re fine people.

Nevertheless, what I’d like to find is some good old fashion hands-on training and a bit of mentoring. A company willing to let me drag hose, mix chemical, go for this and that and lean how to use the equipment in exchange for my free voluntary labor.

If you know or hear of anybody that could use me on various job sites, I need some practical experience. I’m willing to start my business with some new equipment, an instruction manual and my laptop connected to propowerwash.com, but if you hear of a company that could use a hand, I’d appreciate the opportunity to learn in the trenches of a PW business and from an experienced owner/operator. Thanks again.

Randy Hilburn
SouthEast Pros
Ridgeland, MS
(601) 497-7349
SouthEastPros@BellSouth.net
 
How Crude ?

Don Phelps said:
Here are some pics of the PVC wand that we use.

What are you going to do when you fall, and the wand breaks, and that plastic ball valves handle breaks, and you can't shut it off ?
And, why a stainless nozzle when stainless only has a "C" resistance against chlorine ?
Haven't you ever heard of a nylon nozzle ?
Thanks for sharing!
 
Russ s said:
Chris ,i know you said you dont use a wand so could you post some close ups of your applicator so we can see how tours are applied

Sure Russ, here it is https://www.accuspray.com/store/sprayguns/SS-Lawn_Spray_Guns.htm

However, this is the stock one.
We get quick change adaptors made for this gun to, use spraying systems nylon nozzles.
The adaptors are available from Spraying Systems Industrial Products division.
Find you a local spraying systems rep in your area, and he can advise, or call the company in Tampa.

The nozzles simply screw on, quick change style, so you will always have the right nozzle in your pocket.

We like a narrow 15 degree one for doing the edges, and then switch to a 25 degree to really go fast on the rest of the roof.

They make several 0 degree ones, and we use them to shoot chemical, like if we are on a slippery tile roof, and missed a spot on the wet side, we can simply put a zero degree nozzle on, and shoot 30 feet across the roof to the spot we missed.

The only "advantage" I have experienced from a wand is spraying from the ground, maybe.

A wand does place your nozzle closer to the roof, if you are standing on the ground.

But, that's what step ladders are for, and a gun will shoot just as far as a wand, and don't wear your arm/shoulder out.

BTW, the gun we use has a stainless spring, a potential trouble spot.
Stainless only has a "C" rating for chlorine, not good
We have ours made for us out of Hastelloy, but repair kits for the gun include a new spring, and are cheap.
If you replace it every 3 months, no problem.

Regular ACE Hardware plastic screw nozzles for garden hoses can be used, if your pump has enough flow.
ShurFlos don't, unless they are placed in tandem, and large diameter hose is used, like 5/8 or 3/4.

The standard gun is used by landscaping and turf pro's to spray lawn's with chemicals for ants, pests, etc.

They have to be fast, to cover a large area of land.

They are available in 3 different flow rates.
The 1.5 gpm should work fine for a roof.
It has a shower head pattern, so you will have to be careful around the edges, until you get used to it.

Instead of a ball valve, it has an adjustable trigger, so one can easily restrict flow around roof edges.

It also has a locking trigger, so you can crank it wide open, and fly.

I kinda like the shower head pattern on tile roofs, it seems to "catch" the edges.

If you order a gun, and have a standard shurflo, use the 1.5 gpm size.
If you have a dual shurflo, or a roller pump, etc, use 3 gpm.

If you are using 3/8 hose, then you need to adapt the gun like we do for the Nylon Quick Change Nozzles.

The reason why is because 3/8 hose is very restrictive, and is robbing you of pressure, and flow.

If you have say a 60 psi 1.6 gpm shurflo going into 200 feet of 3/8 hose, the pressure drop is going to be almost 48psi!
That means you only have 12psi left to push your flow.
In other words, you will not actually be getting 1.6 gpm at the end of your hose.
So, what people do to "compensate" is to use a really small nozzle to increase velocity.

Unfortunately, while it will "spray", it will also take forever to do a roof.
The real culprit is the restrictive 3/8 hose.
Once it is eliminated, the pump can work properly, and deliver near it's rated flow and pressure, w/o being choked.

I am convinced that this is why wands are so popular, because SOMETHING is needed to hold the small nozzles necessary to make these small hose compromised pumps spray at all.

Once the pump is "un choked", it opens up a whole new world of possibilities, and one can then enter a whole new world, not the world of the pressure washer, but of the pest and lawn professional !
 
russ s said:
ok chris ,i am gonna put one togetjer and see ,its not much money to put one together and i feel wheather i like it or not the experience of using one will be valuable info...thanks again for taking the time to post it

Goood for you, I think you will like it better.
The Nylon nozzles have proven to last until we lose them, LOL
I have yet to have one go bad on me.
I have had the gun body leak if my men didnt rinse them, so be sure and flush all hose, and the gun when you are finished, and right away.
You can call Tampa and ask for martha at spraying systems company.
Tell her I give my permission to reveal what we are using.

Bear in mind we are using a large volume pump, so our nozzles may be too big for you.
Ask to speak to a sales engineer.
They can do a flow calculation for your hose/pump set up, and recommend the correct nozzle diameter.
I suggest a 15 and 25 degree pattern, and a red cone type nozzle that has a white plastic insert in it.
Simply remove the insert, and tat will be your jet tip that will spray 20 feet!

Again, dont go to too big a nozzle!
Better too small then too big!
Happy Spraying!
 
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